One of my favorite TV channels is the Food Network. I think
whoever came up with the idea of an entire network devoted to good things to
eat is a genius.
It also says something about the offerings on network TV
that I prefer to watch someone chopping onions than some of what passes for
entertainment lately.
I first got hooked on the FN watching Rachael Ray throw
together her 30-minute meals. She makes you believe that by shortening key
terms — EVOO for extra virgin olive oil and delish for delicious — it cuts down
cooking time.
Truth be told, it takes the average cook longer than 30
minutes to put together one of Rachael Ray’s 30-minute meals. She can do it in
30 minutes because she has backstage help prepping the food and chopping the
ingredients.
Nonetheless she reeled me in and later I started watching
Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa. Ina makes cooking elegant food look easy. If
the average cook had the well-stocked kitchen Ina has — not to mention her
lavish home in the New York Hamptons and the time to flit around to little
specialty stores where she shops for ingredients — then maybe we can put a
banquet on the table too.
So much for food fiction. It’s still better than daytime
soaps and situation comedies after dinner. There’s also the variety food shows
like Chopped. Four contestants are given picnic baskets, one for each course,
full of such improbable items as chicken feet, horseradish, Kool-Ade, wild
garlic and yak’s milk cheese, and are told to put together something wonderful using
those ingredients and other items from the pantry and refrigerator in 20
minutes flat, and make it look pretty.
The histrionics displayed during Chopped rival any sketch
variety shows used to put on. Stoves suddenly stop working, fires flare up in
blenders, contestants nearly sever their fingers with a knife, and — most
impressive of all, the judges actually eat the results.
Lately the trend on Food Network has been toward “simple”
food. Celebrity chefs tout simple ingredients, locally produced. One such
recipe was a soup thrown together using leftover breadcrumbs, ground almonds,
and a few other things found in no kitchen ever.
Now I don’t claim to be a chef, but I can put a recipe
together and warm up the leftovers. But what passes for “simple” or “rustic”
food on the Food Network is out of my reach.
You want simple? I’ll give you simple. It’s also delicious. Three
ingredients: a ripe, fresh, locally-grown tomato, white bread, and mayonnaise.
The classic, elegant, tomato sandwich.
It doesn’t get any better than that. Unless you add bacon.


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